Ive been surfing lowers this past couple days and the crowds been crazy. Makes me appreciate Drakes Bay so much. Funny story about last night:
I paddled out around 6 pm to lowers when its “less crowded” and there was about 25 people out. Waves were pretty slow and then some sets started. kelly slater paddled out and the waves started cooking. I was stoked to watch the 🐐 get on some lowers rights and rip. As he did. Around right before dark a sick set came in I was in position for the first time ever at lowers. No one around me, Except kelly. First set came in and i saw kelly. No hesitation he went. And no hesitation i let him go. Then the second waves of the set came. It was finally my turn, Me Gavins turn to get on the world class right hander. I whip it super quick so stoked, i started racing down the line, time slowed down, i had a big frontside carve, came out of that turn with so much speed eyeing up my next section then boom! Kelly slater drops in rail to rail we were i looked at him and smiled he looked at me for a glance then dusted me. I was still stoked. Like what was i gonna do hoot kelly slater off a wave at 4 foot lowers. But after I came up and was paddling back out with a smile on my face. Kelly was paddling to me kinda fast. He ended up apologizing about burning me and i just froze. I was talking to the goat i was so stoked. Heres my story from lowers last night…